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Post by Coolverine on Jan 25, 2024 17:41:30 GMT -5
One thing, I have 2x 1TB M.2 SSD's in RAID0, have had it like this since 2020. It's fast and seems stable but I do want to remove one of the 1TB's and replace it with the 2TB. RAID0 is always risky, one time I had 2x 160gb hard drives in RAID0 and oneday it just stopped working and I could never get them to pair again. One of them had some bad sectors from the looks of it.
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 25, 2024 17:45:10 GMT -5
When you double the drives, you double the chance of failure.
My 4TB nvme SSD showed up today, cloning right now in Macrium Reflect. I installed both SSDs in my laptop instead of using a caddy.
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 25, 2024 19:53:37 GMT -5
Last time I cloned a drive I went from 1tb to 2tb, took like 10 minutes. This time it took 1 hour 59 minutes. I also forgot to resize, so I had to do it in Windows but it went just fine. i.imgur.com/rQxi58R.png |
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 27, 2024 14:18:56 GMT -5
I was digging around the forum and found the other computer upgrade thread. This is my CrystalDiskMark from 2018, a 512 gig NVME Samsung drive. My first NVME drive:  This is from 2024, to be fair I think the drive is from 2023 tho, 4 tb:  If my laptop supported the latest standards I am sure it would be much faster. I know the NVME standard is up to 4.0/5.0, something like that. My laptop is 4 years old now and limited to the 3.0 spec |
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 15:13:35 GMT -5
That's why its generally better, if you have a normal income, to buy mid-tier hardware (vs going for the higher spec system), so that you can upgrade more often. Of course, it's relative to what u can personally afford.
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 27, 2024 18:15:29 GMT -5
That's why its generally better, if you have a normal income, to buy mid-tier hardware (vs going for the higher spec system), so that you can upgrade more often. Of course, it's relative to what u can personally afford. My new SSD stopped the blue screening I was getting, I also moved this one to the second m2 port away from the CPU/GPU. I also ran a driver update program, I'm aware they usually do more harm than good but I was getting crazy DPC Latency and that helped with that. I'm debating if I want to upgrade this year or not. Nvidia 5 series is next year, but STALKER 2 end of September. |
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 18:24:52 GMT -5
That's why its generally better, if you have a normal income, to buy mid-tier hardware (vs going for the higher spec system), so that you can upgrade more often. Of course, it's relative to what u can personally afford. My new SSD stopped the blue screening I was getting, I also moved this one to the second m2 port away from the CPU/GPU. I also ran a driver update program, I'm aware they usually do more harm than good but I was getting crazy DPC Latency and that helped with that. I'm debating if I want to upgrade this year or not. Nvidia 5 series is next year, but STALKER 2 end of September. So it's just odd coincidence that it happened right after replacing the cpu metal compound. Like my SSD going kaput, the battery (while still working) simultaneously/coincidentally got a warning (it's about to die) from the Dell diagnostic tool. Thankfully, the battery is not integrated in my older Dell XPS 15 (laptop), so i can replace it. Not so with current XPS models. |
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 27, 2024 18:50:04 GMT -5
So it's just odd coincidence that it happened right after replacing the cpu metal compound. I replaced the compound to see if it would help with the issues I was having. Basically anytime I played any game I would get a BSOD in less then 5 minutes. If I ran CrystalDIskMark I would get a BSOD right away. I had all kinds of weird errors in Event Viewer, on top of that for the first time in owning this laptop I was getting clicks and pops and dropouts in sound, I checked my DPC Latency and as you would expect it was off the charts. Googling these errors found other people with similar issues. The consensus was "You are having hardware issues, also I wouldn't be surprised if you are having overheating issues". Your CPU and GPU aren't the only things that can overheat, especially in a laptop. If your other laptop chips and caps overheat too much it can cause all kinds of issues. I had an issue where sometimes when I got a BSOD when I rebooted my SSD wouldn't even show up in the BIOS, very strange. I ran a very long RAM test outside Windows and after 30 minutes my RAM returned no errors. Figured before buying a whole new laptop lets try and replace the SSD, 2tb is fine but in 2024 it certainly isn't the massive amount of space it was. Just doing that, and maybe moving it to the next SSD slot solved the majority of my problems, but not all of them. Changing drivers seemed to fix that. |
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 18:59:16 GMT -5
Ok, that makes sense.
My SSD failing shouldn't be related to battery issues, since I always leave my laptop plugged in and have it set to that (primarily plugged in usage) in the bios settings (highly recommend doing that if you leave your laptop plugged in most of the time, since it extends battery life).
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 19:18:55 GMT -5
I've thought about upgrading to a new laptop, but I decided to buy an LG OLED 48" TV when it dropped to $1000 (sale) last week. Also, my work just issued me a new laptop, so I can use that for personal IT learning and anything innocuous. They're not against that because they gave me a premium Pluralsight account and a Windows developer account (so I can install any work and/or learning software I need).
I'll still likely buy a new personal laptop or desktop within a year though, probably when next-gen cpu's are released - and maybe utilize it for an IT side hustle. Obviously, it's bad idea using a work computer for your own business, since employers monitor what you're doing.
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Post by Babel-17 on Jan 27, 2024 22:14:42 GMT -5
I've thought about upgrading to a new laptop, but I decided to buy an LG OLED 48" TV when it dropped to $1000 (sale) last week. Also, my work just issued me a new laptop, so I can use that for personal IT learning and anything innocuous. They're not against that because they gave me a premium Pluralsight account and a Windows developer account (so I can install any work and/or learning software I need). I'll still likely buy a new personal laptop or desktop within a year though, probably when next-gen cpu's are released - and maybe utilize it for an IT side hustle. Obviously, it's bad idea using a work computer for your own business, since employers monitor what you're doing. I've got the 48" C1 and it lives up to the hype when playing 4K HDR content. And Rtings had a file thingy/ICC profile to tell Windows to use that supposedly gives it a top notch calibration. It works great as a monitor as well. I dialed back both regular brightness, and OLED brightness. www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-c1-oled#test_1381Only pain in the ass is that it switches to game mode audio when enabling HDR in Windows, or G-sync. I don't care that my preferred mode, AI Sound Pro, has a bit more latency, so I switch it back. Oh, check out Reddit for how to use Color Control, that's an extremely cool utility, though it might violate your warranty, theoretically. |
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 27, 2024 22:16:01 GMT -5
I'm thinking of getting this projector
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 22:56:54 GMT -5
I've thought about upgrading to a new laptop, but I decided to buy an LG OLED 48" TV when it dropped to $1000 (sale) last week. Also, my work just issued me a new laptop, so I can use that for personal IT learning and anything innocuous. They're not against that because they gave me a premium Pluralsight account and a Windows developer account (so I can install any work and/or learning software I need). I'll still likely buy a new personal laptop or desktop within a year though, probably when next-gen cpu's are released - and maybe utilize it for an IT side hustle. Obviously, it's bad idea using a work computer for your own business, since employers monitor what you're doing. I've got the 48" C1 and it lives up to the hype when playing 4K HDR content. And Rtings had a file thingy/ICC profile to tell Windows to use that supposedly gives it a top notch calibration. It works great as a monitor as well. I dialed back both regular brightness, and OLED brightness. www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/lg/48-c1-oled#test_1381Only pain in the ass is that it switches to game mode audio when enabling HDR in Windows, or G-sync. I don't care that my preferred mode, AI Sound Pro, has a bit more latency, so I switch it back. Oh, check out Reddit for how to use Color Control, that's an extremely cool utility, though it might violate your warranty, theoretically. You'll have those pains with just about any brand tv. Similarly, my old Samsung tv, while not HDR capable, only communicates with Windows settings when the tv is set to PC mode (not gaming or other modes). Text clarity on the Samsung is only decent when set to PC mode. Likewise, a YT video about calibrating this older Samsung model said the lag is slightly higher in PC mode. On newer tv's, there are also audio format compatibility issues when your TV has eARC and your soundbar or AVR doesn't (which, I've recently noticed, many soundbars and AVR's currently on the market still don't support eARC). www.howtogeek.com/763334/what-is-earc/ |
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Post by sj on Jan 27, 2024 23:10:14 GMT -5
I'm thinking of getting this projector That's the model that caught my attention. It has low latency for gaming and >95% color accuracy if I recall right. Be aware tho, although they advertise longer bulb life, if you look at the detail specs that max bulb life only applies if you have the eco mode/s enabled (lowering brightness levels). Forget that, imo. In order to attain max contrast, you typically want your tv or projector at its brightest. |
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 27, 2024 23:30:52 GMT -5
I'm thinking of getting this projector That's the model that caught my attention. It has low latency for gaming and >95% color accuracy if I recall right. Be aware tho, although they advertise longer bulb life, if you look at the detail specs that max bulb life only applies if you have the eco mode/s enabled (lowering brightness levels). Forget that, imo. In order to attain max contrast, you typically want your tv or projector at its brightest. I was looking at another one that is placed on the floor a short throw projector, it's bulb was rated for ridiculous hours........but its $6,000. I'm not ready to pay that kind of money |
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 28, 2024 14:01:53 GMT -5
I checked eBay before going to the gym, there was a crazy nice laptop for CAD 2,500 which is about $1850 USD
I was thinking about it then I noticed it said bid, not buy. Not interested in getting in a bidding war then getting sniped
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 29, 2024 10:31:31 GMT -5
I streamed for 3+ hours on Twitch last night. No clicks or pops in my audio, no dropouts. No overheating, to be fair, I was playing Thief which is a game from 1998 with a modern source update and a ton of AA but a game from 1998+AA is different then running CyberPunk 2077 with the frame generation mod.
Still always makes sense to try and solve a problem with your computer then run out and buy a new one.
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 29, 2024 10:34:21 GMT -5
One thing I am not getting.
I posted on here that it took like 7 minutes to clone a 256 SSD to 512 SSD in 2018.
Don't recall exactly how long it took to clone my 1tb to 2tb but it wasn't very long.
Not sure why it took almost exactly 2 hours to clone 2tb to 4tb.
I was using Mini Tool Partition wizard for some of the clones and Macrium Reflect for the others. I guess maybe Macrium isn't as fast but has better error checking? Maybe my 2tb SSD is in the process of dying so it took more error correction
No idea, weird.
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Post by ForRealTho on Jan 29, 2024 11:01:19 GMT -5
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Post by ForRealTho on Feb 2, 2024 13:08:51 GMT -5
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Post by sj on Feb 2, 2024 18:07:00 GMT -5
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Post by ForRealTho on Feb 2, 2024 18:35:55 GMT -5
I was on the fence with either the one I got or the one you linked. I decided to get a used one from Amazon, figured it didn't hurt and saved me $200, now I am getting a little buyers remorse and thinking of the Alienware but I doubt there is much difference between the two.
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Post by sj on Feb 2, 2024 19:18:09 GMT -5
I was on the fence with either the one I got or the one you linked. I decided to get a used one from Amazon, figured it didn't hurt and saved me $200, now I am getting a little buyers remorse and thinking of the Alienware but I doubt there is much difference between the two. You made the smart choice - save some money and less worry (IPS panels are practically immune to burn-in.). I did prefer the better contrast of OLED tv's while looking at them in Best Buy. But OLED will eventually get burn-in, it's only a matter of time and when it happens mostly depends on usage. Having bought a OLED tv, the burn-in factor is a small worry at the back of my mind and makes me feel like i need to limit gaming & PC time on it. I don't like that feeling, however, I don't spend much time gaming these days anyway so I figure it should be ok, given my usage case. Kudos to Dell tho - other mfg's should follow suit w/ better burn-in coverage. |
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Post by Emig5m on Feb 2, 2024 23:32:55 GMT -5
I was on the fence with either the one I got or the one you linked. I decided to get a used one from Amazon, figured it didn't hurt and saved me $200, now I am getting a little buyers remorse and thinking of the Alienware but I doubt there is much difference between the two. You made the smart choice - save some money and less worry (IPS panels are practically immune to burn-in.). I did prefer the better contrast of OLED tv's while looking at them in Best Buy. But OLED will eventually get burn-in, it's only a matter of time and when it happens mostly depends on usage. Having bought a OLED tv, the burn-in factor is a small worry at the back of my mind and makes me feel like i need to limit gaming & PC time on it. I don't like that feeling, however, I don't spend much time gaming these days anyway so I figure it should be ok, given my usage case. Kudos to Dell tho - other mfg's should follow suit w/ better burn-in coverage. My OLED has zero burn and I use it all for PC use. |
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Post by sj on Feb 3, 2024 11:20:27 GMT -5
You made the smart choice - save some money and less worry (IPS panels are practically immune to burn-in.). I did prefer the better contrast of OLED tv's while looking at them in Best Buy. But OLED will eventually get burn-in, it's only a matter of time and when it happens mostly depends on usage. Having bought a OLED tv, the burn-in factor is a small worry at the back of my mind and makes me feel like i need to limit gaming & PC time on it. I don't like that feeling, however, I don't spend much time gaming these days anyway so I figure it should be ok, given my usage case. Kudos to Dell tho - other mfg's should follow suit w/ better burn-in coverage. My OLED has zero burn and I use it all for PC use. I'm not saying it's gonna burn out in a year or even five years. But if you're somebody (like i was) who kept their tv's & monitors for a ridiculously long time (say, 7-10 years), it could be somewhat of a factor. Maybe i'm wrong tho because, even with LED (non-OLED), the backlight is probably going to fail or develop a flicker problem at roughly around the 10 years mark. |
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Post by ForRealTho on Feb 3, 2024 11:27:06 GMT -5
I tried to cancel it and get an OLED but Amazon says it's too late so I would need to do a return. Oh well.
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Post by sj on Feb 3, 2024 11:39:36 GMT -5
I tried to cancel it and get an OLED but Amazon says it's too late so I would need to do a return. Oh well. If it was prime or "shipped by Amazon", you could return it without penalty. Just choose the "product arrived too late" or some other BS. No need to even open it or check anything. If shipped by someone else, the return policy can differ, they might deny or tack on a restocking fee. You can find out by contacting the seller (they usually have contact info on the seller's page on Amazon). |
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Post by sj on Feb 3, 2024 12:01:27 GMT -5
Not all Amazon returns require you print a return label - they sometimes have a return option to email you a QR code - so u then take your smart phone and product to the nearest UPS store. They scan the QR code on your phone and print the return label at the store.
If they do require you print the return label yourself and you don't have a printer at home, you can go to the public library - use their computers and printer (it's 10 cents per page at the libraries around here).
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Post by Coolverine on Feb 3, 2024 13:35:56 GMT -5
^I usually go to Office Depot to print stuff out when needed, I think Staples does it too but there's not one near me anymore.
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Post by sj on Feb 3, 2024 14:29:10 GMT -5
^I usually go to Office Depot to print stuff out when needed, I think Staples does it too but there's not one near me anymore. Buying a printer is one of the worst investments because the (expensive) ink cartridges dry out rather quickly even when not being used. |
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